It’s amazing how much a change of season can change one’s perspective. When we arrived in Donetsk earlier today, I couldn’t believe how much prettier it was than the last time I was there in the dead of winter. What’s more is that Pa and I never truly had the chance to get outside and walk around. We did, eventually, take the risk and navigate the icy streets, but always stayed on the main boulevard adjacent to our hotel and never really full experienced Donetsk.

Today, Donetsk was bustling–even for a Sunday. Families were walking along Pushkin Square which was one of the most beautiful gardenesque strolls in the city. I was convinced that Pushkin Square didn’t exist when we were in town in 2004 but I’ve been told otherwise.

The square had two huge playgrounds on which we let Mr. Na get his boogie out. Spending 90 minutes in a hot and sticky car from Kramatorsk to Donetsk wasn’t pleasant for him. Beautiful outdoor cafes and restaurants dotted the square and we chose a pizza place to have dinner before catching the soccer game at the stadium.

Pa had one mission today: find the Shakhtar Football Store! Turns out it was the last shop on Pushkin Square! It was a lot smaller than we imagined but that didn’t stop him from buying out the store. Would you believe he bought Shakhtar espresso cups? Finally, when he gathered up all his loot and took it to the counter to pay, they told him they wouldn’t accept visa! So he had to plunk down a huge chunk of cash…hopefully that won’t bite us back later when we’re scrambling to get a visa, a passport and airline tickets home!

We stayed at the Hotel Druzhba–the same hotel in which we took up residence in 2004. This time we chose a suite so we could give Mr. Na a separate room. They renovated the hotel and it looks a million times better than it did four years ago. Even the bathroom is quite lovely! After dinner and stowing Pa’s Shakhtar stash, we made our way to the Donetsk stadium for the match. I couldn’t get over how many people filled the stadium for a Sunday night–lots of die-hard fans. There were fans who even painted their face orange and white! We had amazing seats for the match–about five rows away from where the players enter the field and our tickets were only $4 apiece–completely unheard of back home!

As the sun dipped behind the stadium, throngs of fans began to line up alongside the players “tunnel” with the hope of grabbing an autograph or a after the match. These young athletes were definitely the toast of Donestk–and I wondered how many young boys dream of being on the football team.

Tomorrow, we visit Mr. Na’s orphanage! I’ll write an update afterwards!

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